Recovery

Healing takes time. Many of you may know it's my goal to take my surfing to the next level in summer 2010 but recently, I experienced a tough setback. This is my first post since I injured my back in November, slipping down icy steps during a visit to Haines, Alaska.

For the first month, it was difficult to move. Sitting in any position was uncomfortable, even in bed with a pillow behind me. Getting up was excruciating and made me scream out loud. Typing on the laptop was a feat I managed only by holding my breath. I had to sit still, a lot, and while my body couldn't move, my brain went on overdrive. I read tons of history for the book I'm working on and mostly to transport myself to another place and time where pain didn't exist.

But I had good friends to help me recover. Starr gave me a professional massage that allowed me to move semi-freely and conduct interviews with my biography subject, wincing only when I had to get up from the couch. My friend Bob took me out to movies, helping me out of the theatre seat and down icy roads. James, as always, kept me positive. Esther and Al loaned me a body pillow to cushion me on restless nights.

My friends also accompanied me to the Canada Games centre where first I soaked only in the hot tub, then gently flexed my limbs in the leisure pool, then finally donned flippers to try long slow lengths, chatting all the while. Stretching was a challenge, not only because of the injury but because I had been made to sit still for so long. I'm not good at sitting still.

The dogs were patient, snuggling next to me while my body healed but overjoyed when we finally got back out for walks. I still have to choose off-leash trails because I'm afraid the pull of two strong dogs would reinjure me, regressing all the careful progress I've made. I take breaks after a couple of days walking in a row. Yesterday I stayed home working. Today, I was back on the Chadburn Lake Trail getting the dogs out for a 3-hour hike on this beautiful sunny and only -15 day. It gave me a chance to catch up with my friend Paul who just got back from his girlfriend's art show in Juneau. (He took the photo.)

I'm starting to feel better but because of the long recovery time I went for x-rays before xmas to make sure there is nothing more serious going on. I feel the tightness in my back only after long walks or too many quick movements, running errands or on my one brief foray onto the dance floor. But my leg still has shooting pain and numbness and I can't put all my weight on it when changing into my bathing suit.

I need to rebuild my core strength and have both my legs stable to get back up on that board. The ocean is a tough taskmaster, and sometimes so is life, but I'll do it.

Après Surf Comfort

Wildside Grill *****

1180 Pacific Rim Hwy

Tofino, BC, V0R

(250) 725-WILD (9453)

www.wildsidegrill.com

Chilled and drenched to the bone after spending Day 4 of the first ever Canadian O’Neill Coldwater Classic perched on the rocks overlooking Cox Bay, I was searching for comfort food. Teeth still chattering, I’d asked Jerry, the friendly Tofino Bus driver to drop me off at the “Live to Surf Plaza”, a Pacific-style mini mall whose funky wooden buildings ranged from tiny sugar shack to the more generous barn-like home of the surf school. Remembering the sign for the Wildside Grill, I found it tucked around a corner and followed the warm beacon of light through the gray rain to their takeout window.

Beaming at me with smiling faces, their staff, a bearded dude with blonde hair tucked under his bandana, and a fresh-faced girl, ponytail piled atop her head, waited to take and prepare my order. Not for the first time, I wondered if everyone in Tofino was a surfer by day and server by night.

Scanning the glassed-in chalkboard, my curiousity was piqued by the Oyster Burger ($11.95) but my gaze and grumbling stomach settled on the Salmon Burger with hand-cut fries ($13.95).

“The salmon burger is really good,” my server agreed, explaining that commercial fisherman, Jeff Mikus, had partnered up in the business with well-known chef, Jesse Blake. “From our boat to your plate” is the slogan for this local venture. Asking my name to write on the bright yellow order slip, adding, “It’ll be up in four minutes.”

Another customer arrived, an outdoorsy woman, blue shell pulled to her chin against the drizzle. “Do you need a ride?”

“Thanks anyway,” I said, my temporary home mere minutes down the road but charmed by the island’s friendly vibe.

Attuned to the kitchen’s warmth and aroma, I asked about the Grill’s breakfast time, planning to grab a quick bite before the morning’s first heat.

“Don’t know, I’m the night man,” turning to co-worker. “Ten o’clock.” Too late for the start, but a quick walk from North Chesterman if the action moved back there as forecast.

Taking shelter in a nearby covered alcove, I had barely reviewed the day’s photos when I heard my name, in-between the sounds of the surf and rain-slicked tires.

Boxing up my dinner, the self-described “night man” slipped it inside a plastic bag for extra protection, then attended to my choice of vinegar and set out plastic tubs for dispenser ketchup. My core temperature had yet to warm up but I felt like I was almost home. Cradling my precious parcel inside my knapsack, I shielded it against my body on the walk back.

Unwrapping it on the long pine table in Tofino Garden’s cozy common room, I inhaled homey warmth and the clean, fresh smell of the ocean. The salmon, bathed in a tasty mix of mayo, corn and smoked tomato relishes, dissolved in flaky chunks. The spring greens, thick tomato and creamy avocado were still crisp and cool on my tongue, the bun fresh baked, not soggy. This was a perfect combination of sensations few restaurants achieve. Dipping my sea-salty fries into my bottomless ketchup prolonged the pleasure of my meal.

I stopped back at the “Grill” on Day 7, exhilarated after hometown hero, surfer Pete DeVries scooted across supersized fall waves to victory on this Canadian leg of O’Neill’s international contest that has traveled from Tasmania to South Africa, Scotland and soon wraps up in Santa Cruz, CA. The sunshine, sparkling ocean and festive mood all conspired to make me linger. Wishing I could take a little piece of Tofino home with me, I picked up one of chef Blake’s daily homemade cookies – oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip, the perfect snack for the road home.

I ran into Jeff, back to reopen after the whole plaza shut down and joined the crowd witnessing surf history as Tofino’s DeVries pulled out all the stops, carving up every wave and executing a 9.7 score (out of a possible 10). Everyone was stoked with DeVries becoming the first Canadian to win an Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Qualifying Event during the first ever event on Canadian shores.

Next time I’m in Tofino, Wildside Grill is at the top of my list, right after the ocean. This affordable, healthy grill offers awesome service, generous burgers and fresh meals with a Pacific twist, including Ling cod caught right off Long Beach.

Whether you’re building up an appetite watching the Jedi masters of surfing in action or pounding the waves yourself, the Wildside Grill is a short jaunt from North Chesterman Beach and the perfect après surf comfort.

Rainjackets required, except when the sun shines on the Canadian surf scene.

Face of Canadian Surfing

On a sunny Halowe'en day with a crowd cheering him on through the most awesome waves of this week's competition, Canadian Pete DeVries won the first ever ASP world qualifying event on Canadian shores. Carried on the shoulders of his fans, the conquering hero rode in to accept the trophy to deafening cheers of all the people who came out to support this local Tofino surfer. DeVries grew up just steps away from North Chesterman Beach, where this final day of Canada's O'Neill Coldwater Classic was held. For that last defining heat, Pete pulled out all the stops, conquering every wave that came his way.

It was an incredible day to be a surf fan, a Canadian and right here on the beach where surf history was made!

surfergrrrrrl,
signing off :)

Defying Gravity and the Elements

Day 6 of the Canada O'Neill Coldwater Classic: the action moved back to North Chesterman Beach, unrecognizable from the other day with high tide eroding the sand, vast uncrossable puddles and the rock where I sat making a phonecall on my first nearly underwater. Then there was the rain, a little drizzle at first and then pouring down hard in the afternoon while people huddled under the tents with hot coffee trying to stay warm.

But when you're in the water, you're already wet so it didn't deter in the least the spectacular show playing out over the waves. Cory Lopez put on a masterful display as he flew in and around the peaks and valleys of the waves, conjuring up the word "fluid". He had it all - moves, execution and style choreographed to inspire and awe. Cory had today's highest single wave score at 9.50.

In one of the final three-men heats, two surfers launched from the east and west side of the same peak, causing viewers and camera lenses to richochet from one end of the beach to the other and back to catch all the excitement. It was an apt signal for the upcoming duels, as heats were reduced to two competitors per heat as we head towards the final victor.

More good news - local Pete DeVries made it into the quarterfinals. Once they've determined the location for the final contest this morning, I'll be there, on the beach, watching surf history unfold.

Walk on water - Day 5 at the Canada O'Neill Coldwater Classic

Day 5 of the Canada O'Neill Coldwater Classic had it all - starting with short but clean and sometimes frustrating waves during high tide that had competitors in so close to shore they were performing almost right in front of the judge's tent, much to photographers' delight. Then
the ocean took a deep breath and surfers paddled back and forth trying to stay warm while life and death minutes ticked away on the heat. It kicked back into high gear as the day progressed with increasingly chaotic and fog-enshrouded waves, dropping to low tide.

It was man vs. ocean as competitors waited out lulls and when the action hit, two, sometimes three surfers progressive waves in a set, giving the crowd a thrill. Hometown heroes Pete Devries and Shannon Brown showed their knowledge of the local surf to great point advantage.

Today was a battle of the masters as only two of the three men competing in each heat would go on in the contest. But when you play with the ocean, nothing is a sure thing. During one heat it seemed the lead changed places each time a surfer caught a new wave. And then there was the incredible contest between DeVries and Ireland's Glenn Hall. And it's not over yet.

Day 6 can only get more intense.

Wild Ride

This is undoubtedly the "coolest contest on the planet" - the O'Neill Coldwater Classic is currently in Tofino, BC after touching down in Tasmania, South Africa and Scotland, next stop southern California. This is the first world qualifying event from the Association of Professional surfers EVER to be held on Canadian shores. I caught up with the action on day 4 at Cox Beach.

Today, I climbed up to a perch on the rocks looking for a great shot, then with a little direction, found a closer vantage point, out where the surfers hang back waiting for a wave. The competition is run in heats and each surfer's two best waves are graded on a scale from 1 to 10. The aim is to determine the two competitors with the highest score who will go on into the next heat.

I saw some beautifully executed cutbacks, behind-the-scene antics as one surfer warmed up with kicks up to his chin, then mugged for the camera, and lots of great cameraderie and happy moods all round. People in the water and on the beach are here because of the passion they feel for the sport.

But tomorrow I'm going to take my wet weather gear no matter how the day starts out. First it was grey, then whisps of fog moved in front of my lens until it poured down rain and I had to run for cover. You can check out the current conditions at the Cox Beach webcam:
http://www.longbeachlodgeresort.com/site/video/cox_bay_tofino_webcam.html

The buzz is that 30-foot waves are expected for tomorrow so the competition may be moved back to North Chesterman beach tomorrow (where it was held on Day 3). Like any sports contest, weather, wind and in this case, wave conditions determine the playing field and you can either follow the loudspeaker to the source (as I did this morning walking along North and South Chesterman and then down the highway) or you call call Tofino bus (www.tofinobus.com) each morning for the 4-1-1. And don't forget to ask where their next pickup is - rides are free all this week from an hour before to an hour after the competition.

surfergrrrrrl, thrilled to the max to be here

surfergrrrrrl is now on Twitter

Just a quick post to say you can now follow surfergrrrrrl on twitter:
http://twitter.com/surfergrrrrrl

Surfing for nutrition and fitness

No, this is not a post about river surfing, which is becoming popular in eastern Canada. That's the Takhini River viewed from the Research Forest outside Whitehorse, YT. I've been hiking there regularly as part of my quest for staying in surf shape and to give the dogs a good run. I'm still waiting for the Canada Games Centre pool to reopen September 13th before I can get in a good swim and really need to find some alternative for stretching in the meantime. I did wade into Marsh Lake, about 45 minutes south of Whitehorse, on the hot summer days, but most bodies of water in the Yukon are a little chilly. We did also spent a night out camping by the Takhini with the Muktuk crew who had all been in for a swim: www.muktuk.com. But I was busy hammering in tent pegs and only my dogs Owl and Wolf went in.

I've also been researching surfing, fitness and nutrition guidance online. I found a few good articles that talk about what to eat to stay in shape and the most popular snacks to bring with. Chocolate is a favourite energy booster, and bananas. Of course, you should always bring water to the beach. I can vouch for the fact that you get really hungry after burning calories off on and between the waves. Personally, I brought dried fruit and nuts to Wickanninish Beach and that seemed just enough. Before my first lesson in Ukee, we stopped off at a local cafe and I had a potato blintz and bottled orange juice as a bit of a pre-workout boost. I was always starving afterwards and would indulge in a big caesar salad back at the hostel. (See my article: Sunbathing with Bears at trazzler.com)

For most exercise, they don't recommend eating right before a workout, at least that was true for martial arts. But when I was training for my bronze and bronze cross for lifeguarding, I always made sure to eat a hearty breakfast before hitting the pool and I think that's just as valid for hitting the ocean. My regimen in those days was 1 single cup of coffee, and a huge homemade omelette filled with cheese, tomatoes, green peppers, onions and mushrooms and 2 thick slices of toast.

Mark at Inner Rhythm surf shop: www.innerrhythm.com talked about the importance of supplementary salmon capsules as well as a healthy diet that included seafood. In other words, we should eat like the other sea creatures. Luckily, I have fresh salmon in my freezer right now.

A lot of the articles I read talk about burgers and beer, but since I'm a piscatarian (lacto-ovo vegetarian including fish) and not a beer fan, I'll be sticking to the veggie burgers and pure berry blend juice. For vegetarians chick peas, lentils and leafy greens are recommended.

Here's a sampling of some of the better articles:
http://www.surfinghandbook.com/health-benefits-of-surfing.html
http://www.surfing-waves.com/surf/surfersnacks.htm
http://www.surfingcal.com/nutrition.html
http://www.surfingcal.com/surfing-fitness.html
http://www.clubofthewaves.com/surf_nutrition.php

surfergrrrrrl

Surferggrrrrrl joins the local Yukon blogging community

btw you can also now find surfergrrrrrl through my local blogging community, Urban Yukon:
http://urbanyukon.com/author/surfergrrrrrl/

Take some time to check out the other blogs - there are a lot of great writers and interesting people here in my new hometown.

surfergrrrrrl

If you're a beginning surfer who doesn't live near the ocean, it can be a challenge to stay in shape for the next time you hit the waves. In fact, according to one estimate, Whitehorse, YT where I live, is 1,911 km away from Tofino. (As the raven flies?) That's where the O'Neill Surf classic will be held in late October:
http://www.surfingvancouverisland.com/surf/newz.htm

As an eager new enthusiast, I'd like to go to see surfing at it's finest and experience that watershed moment - the first time a world qualifying competition has ever been held on Canadian shores. From here, it's only a quick plane ride to Vancouver, a ferry ride and then the Tofino bus: www.tofinobus.com

In the meantime, I've started cross-training slowly with run-walks in the bush 2 minutes away from my neighbourhood bordering the wilderness. Swimming will also become an important part of my regime. But I'll have to wait for the annual maintenance to be completed before I can resume laps at the fantastic pool at the Canada Games Centre. It reopens mid-September: http://www.canadagamescentre.whitehorse.ca/

When I was in Ucluelet, I asked about cross-training to build my core strength, work my arms for paddling and my legs for snap-ups. I learned that the following should all help:
swimming
running and hiking
biking
yoga for stretching
pilates to build muscle
salmon capsules for building lean muscle

I've been looking online for advice and found this article:
http://www.surfitness.com/surflifewomen.htm
I'll share more as I discover it and report in on my progress.

I know I'm not the only surfer in Whitehorse, so if anyone else would like to share their cross-training routine, please comment on this post and it would be great to hear about surfing experiences elsewhere in the world. Personally, I have my sights set on Bali in the future, a wonderful place to escape to warm waves once it hits -40 in the Yukon.

I've been told that Ian Rinn operates a great surf-yoga retreat and have also been dreaming about wwww.surfgoddesss.com

surfergrrrrrl

Talking about Ukee

My friend Gord wondered if Ukee was a strange language. No, and it's not a musical instrument either but the nickame for Ucluelet, on Vancouver Island, a wonderful surf destination. I took my lessons on nearby Wickannish Beach and stayed in the local hostel, a great launchpad for any adventure.

Here's a quick travel quip I wrote for Trazzler.com about Ukee:
http://www.trazzler.com/trips/c-n-backpackers-hostel-ucluelet-bc-in-ucluelet-bc-v0r-ca-2

Enjoy,
surfergrrrrrl

Surf's up early

I'm up early to work on my Surf 101 article, trying to describe that aha moment when you realize that riding a wave into the shore is about to become a lifelong passion.

This is something that even the beginning surfer shares with the most professional accomplished competitor - that clicking into place as you stop battling the ocean and harness its power. It's also about harnessing your own power and recognizing that innate connection to nature that allows you to work in harmony with it. It's that moment when you stop wrestling with your own fears and just do it.

Sometimes that's a matter of breaking it down into baby steps. In the ocean that may mean a belly ride on your board instead of standing up, catching the thrill of the ride without pushing beyond your boundaries, but sooner or later you have to get up.

I started my cross-training last night, conquering a fear of not being able to breathe when I run.
I don't know if it's my allergies or lung capacity but apart from short sprints I've never been able to maintain the momentum without gasping for air. I have the same problem with long flights of stairs. Those of you who know me know I can hike forever - 7 and 1/2 hour stretch up Golden Horn Mountain no problem, so this time I combined my attempt with a familiar hiking trail for that added comfort factor. I didn't have to think about where I was going - I just had to keep going.

Last night, I did one of my favourite loops in the bush behind my neighbourhood, and I ran a good third of the hour walk. I didn't approach it like a race, expending all my energy in the first burst, but focused on each segment instead. I'll just run until I get to the valley, I'll just run around this corner until I reach the connecting trail ....

Instead of negative self-talk, I encouraged myself - you can do this, this feels okay, keep going, you can go a bit further. I came home energized and excited because it was the furthest I have ever run.

I'll talk more about the different forms of exercise that were suggested to me for cross-training next time.

Stoked on surfing in Ucluelet

Welcome to my brand new blog - surfergrrrl!

I took my first lesson in Hawaii this March and I was hooked from the minute I got up on the board. No, even before that - every time I tried to get up on the board and fell off into the warm welcoming ocean I wanted more.

Wanting to learn more led me to Uclulet this summer, a tiny surfing town about 20 minutes outside Tofino on Vancouver Island.

Thanks to my instructor Joel at Inner Rhythm www.innerrhythm.ca I learned how to catch my own wave and had an introductory lesson on understanding the mysteries of the ocean surf. This blog will be a record of my progress as I learn more about surfing, explore some cross-training options until the next time I get near the ocean (since I live in the Yukon) and investigate the heart of the ocean.

Until next time, surfergrrrrl signing off.