Wildside Grill *****
1180 Pacific Rim Hwy
Tofino, BC, V0R
(250) 725-WILD (9453)
Chilled and drenched to the bone after spending Day 4 of the first ever Canadian O’Neill Coldwater Classic perched on the rocks overlooking Cox Bay, I was searching for comfort food. Teeth still chattering, I’d asked Jerry, the friendly Tofino Bus driver to drop me off at the “Live to Surf Plaza”, a Pacific-style mini mall whose funky wooden buildings ranged from tiny sugar shack to the more generous barn-like home of the surf school. Remembering the sign for the Wildside Grill, I found it tucked around a corner and followed the warm beacon of light through the gray rain to their takeout window.
Beaming at me with smiling faces, their staff, a bearded dude with blonde hair tucked under his bandana, and a fresh-faced girl, ponytail piled atop her head, waited to take and prepare my order. Not for the first time, I wondered if everyone in Tofino was a surfer by day and server by night.
Scanning the glassed-in chalkboard, my curiousity was piqued by the Oyster Burger ($11.95) but my gaze and grumbling stomach settled on the Salmon Burger with hand-cut fries ($13.95).
“The salmon burger is really good,” my server agreed, explaining that commercial fisherman, Jeff Mikus, had partnered up in the business with well-known chef, Jesse Blake. “From our boat to your plate” is the slogan for this local venture. Asking my name to write on the bright yellow order slip, adding, “It’ll be up in four minutes.”
Another customer arrived, an outdoorsy woman, blue shell pulled to her chin against the drizzle. “Do you need a ride?”
“Thanks anyway,” I said, my temporary home mere minutes down the road but charmed by the island’s friendly vibe.
Attuned to the kitchen’s warmth and aroma, I asked about the Grill’s breakfast time, planning to grab a quick bite before the morning’s first heat.
“Don’t know, I’m the night man,” turning to co-worker. “Ten o’clock.” Too late for the start, but a quick walk from North Chesterman if the action moved back there as forecast.
Taking shelter in a nearby covered alcove, I had barely reviewed the day’s photos when I heard my name, in-between the sounds of the surf and rain-slicked tires.
Boxing up my dinner, the self-described “night man” slipped it inside a plastic bag for extra protection, then attended to my choice of vinegar and set out plastic tubs for dispenser ketchup. My core temperature had yet to warm up but I felt like I was almost home. Cradling my precious parcel inside my knapsack, I shielded it against my body on the walk back.
Unwrapping it on the long pine table in Tofino Garden’s cozy common room, I inhaled homey warmth and the clean, fresh smell of the ocean. The salmon, bathed in a tasty mix of mayo, corn and smoked tomato relishes, dissolved in flaky chunks. The spring greens, thick tomato and creamy avocado were still crisp and cool on my tongue, the bun fresh baked, not soggy. This was a perfect combination of sensations few restaurants achieve. Dipping my sea-salty fries into my bottomless ketchup prolonged the pleasure of my meal.
I stopped back at the “Grill” on Day 7, exhilarated after hometown hero, surfer Pete DeVries scooted across supersized fall waves to victory on this Canadian leg of O’Neill’s international contest that has traveled from Tasmania to South Africa, Scotland and soon wraps up in Santa Cruz, CA. The sunshine, sparkling ocean and festive mood all conspired to make me linger. Wishing I could take a little piece of Tofino home with me, I picked up one of chef Blake’s daily homemade cookies – oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip, the perfect snack for the road home.
I ran into Jeff, back to reopen after the whole plaza shut down and joined the crowd witnessing surf history as Tofino’s DeVries pulled out all the stops, carving up every wave and executing a 9.7 score (out of a possible 10). Everyone was stoked with DeVries becoming the first Canadian to win an Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Qualifying Event during the first ever event on Canadian shores.
Next time I’m in Tofino, Wildside Grill is at the top of my list, right after the ocean. This affordable, healthy grill offers awesome service, generous burgers and fresh meals with a Pacific twist, including Ling cod caught right off Long Beach.
Whether you’re building up an appetite watching the Jedi masters of surfing in action or pounding the waves yourself, the Wildside Grill is a short jaunt from North Chesterman Beach and the perfect après surf comfort.
Rainjackets required, except when the sun shines on the Canadian surf scene.
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