Firsthand View of Ucluelet Harbour at noon - Tsunami Advisory still in effect

 

This is the view from Imperial Lane overlooking Ucluelet Harbour - the tide is lower now although there is still some unusual wave action happening further offshore with whitecaps in evidence. A curious thing, a lot of the seagulls are floating on the surface of the water. The marine life and shorebirds seem particularly sensitive to the same events we humans can only guess at.

Earlier, on the Ucluelet Harbour webcam a group of ghostly heads floated just near the waterline - seals or river otters traveling together perhaps during the disturbance.

Parks Canada has closed the beaches in Pacific Rim Park Reserve but the highway running through it was open (despite earlier anecdotal reports). Visitors to Ucluelet staying locally said there was no access this morning to the highway out to Port Alberni via the Junction. Kennedy Lake which lies beside Hwy 4 is affected by tidal currents coming up through its mouth.

I will continue to post updates from the harbour as the day progresses.

Tsunami Advisory in Ucluelet and Tofino region until 6 p.m. today

Today is not a day for surfing - I have been watching the Tsunami advisory coverage since 2-2:30 a.m.-ish after the loudspeakers from a boat docked nearby woke me out of a sound sleep. The sea lions were wailing a complaint even more plaintive than before the last thunder storm.

I checked the link to the West Coast and Alaska Tsunami Information www.wcatwc.arh.noa.gov kindly posted by Geoff at www.longbeachradio.ca  last night. The area had been upgraded from an alert to an advisory.

I called the RCMP who advised me to set my alarm for early as the first wave was expected to reach us around 7 a.m. Instead, news junkie that I am, I watched the online coverage on Hawaii most of the night.

My bag was already packed and I was about to head out with the dogs when the local fire department knocked at my door around 6:30 this a.m. to suggest moving to higher ground.

I've been stationed at cynamoka - www.cynamoka.ca ever since, checking on the dogs in the car regularly. Owl had a bad night last night and has been experiencing some pain. I wanted to go home awhile ago but there was quite a bit of churn in the harbour - with the low tide going out and surges pushing in over them it resembled an eddy. We've all been watching the harbour cam with its dramatically changing currents and online sources like CNN and CBC for coverage.

Russell just came in to say that out by Millstream at around 8:30 a.m. the low tide appeared to be at high tide and then it was all sucked out of the harbour a moment later. Similar to what I saw on the Hawaiian coverage earlier this morning. Another customer agreed, saying it was like the harbour was breathing.

There is a lot of whitewater churning in the harbour again and a hint of sun further down - not able to go home yet then. I will keep you updated as much as I can.

Après Surf Comfort

Wildside Grill *****

1180 Pacific Rim Hwy

Tofino, BC, V0R

(250) 725-WILD (9453)

www.wildsidegrill.com

Chilled and drenched to the bone after spending Day 4 of the first ever Canadian O’Neill Coldwater Classic perched on the rocks overlooking Cox Bay, I was searching for comfort food. Teeth still chattering, I’d asked Jerry, the friendly Tofino Bus driver to drop me off at the “Live to Surf Plaza”, a Pacific-style mini mall whose funky wooden buildings ranged from tiny sugar shack to the more generous barn-like home of the surf school. Remembering the sign for the Wildside Grill, I found it tucked around a corner and followed the warm beacon of light through the gray rain to their takeout window.

Beaming at me with smiling faces, their staff, a bearded dude with blonde hair tucked under his bandana, and a fresh-faced girl, ponytail piled atop her head, waited to take and prepare my order. Not for the first time, I wondered if everyone in Tofino was a surfer by day and server by night.

Scanning the glassed-in chalkboard, my curiousity was piqued by the Oyster Burger ($11.95) but my gaze and grumbling stomach settled on the Salmon Burger with hand-cut fries ($13.95).

“The salmon burger is really good,” my server agreed, explaining that commercial fisherman, Jeff Mikus, had partnered up in the business with well-known chef, Jesse Blake. “From our boat to your plate” is the slogan for this local venture. Asking my name to write on the bright yellow order slip, adding, “It’ll be up in four minutes.”

Another customer arrived, an outdoorsy woman, blue shell pulled to her chin against the drizzle. “Do you need a ride?”

“Thanks anyway,” I said, my temporary home mere minutes down the road but charmed by the island’s friendly vibe.

Attuned to the kitchen’s warmth and aroma, I asked about the Grill’s breakfast time, planning to grab a quick bite before the morning’s first heat.

“Don’t know, I’m the night man,” turning to co-worker. “Ten o’clock.” Too late for the start, but a quick walk from North Chesterman if the action moved back there as forecast.

Taking shelter in a nearby covered alcove, I had barely reviewed the day’s photos when I heard my name, in-between the sounds of the surf and rain-slicked tires.

Boxing up my dinner, the self-described “night man” slipped it inside a plastic bag for extra protection, then attended to my choice of vinegar and set out plastic tubs for dispenser ketchup. My core temperature had yet to warm up but I felt like I was almost home. Cradling my precious parcel inside my knapsack, I shielded it against my body on the walk back.

Unwrapping it on the long pine table in Tofino Garden’s cozy common room, I inhaled homey warmth and the clean, fresh smell of the ocean. The salmon, bathed in a tasty mix of mayo, corn and smoked tomato relishes, dissolved in flaky chunks. The spring greens, thick tomato and creamy avocado were still crisp and cool on my tongue, the bun fresh baked, not soggy. This was a perfect combination of sensations few restaurants achieve. Dipping my sea-salty fries into my bottomless ketchup prolonged the pleasure of my meal.

I stopped back at the “Grill” on Day 7, exhilarated after hometown hero, surfer Pete DeVries scooted across supersized fall waves to victory on this Canadian leg of O’Neill’s international contest that has traveled from Tasmania to South Africa, Scotland and soon wraps up in Santa Cruz, CA. The sunshine, sparkling ocean and festive mood all conspired to make me linger. Wishing I could take a little piece of Tofino home with me, I picked up one of chef Blake’s daily homemade cookies – oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip, the perfect snack for the road home.

I ran into Jeff, back to reopen after the whole plaza shut down and joined the crowd witnessing surf history as Tofino’s DeVries pulled out all the stops, carving up every wave and executing a 9.7 score (out of a possible 10). Everyone was stoked with DeVries becoming the first Canadian to win an Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Qualifying Event during the first ever event on Canadian shores.

Next time I’m in Tofino, Wildside Grill is at the top of my list, right after the ocean. This affordable, healthy grill offers awesome service, generous burgers and fresh meals with a Pacific twist, including Ling cod caught right off Long Beach.

Whether you’re building up an appetite watching the Jedi masters of surfing in action or pounding the waves yourself, the Wildside Grill is a short jaunt from North Chesterman Beach and the perfect après surf comfort.

Rainjackets required, except when the sun shines on the Canadian surf scene.

Defying Gravity and the Elements

Day 6 of the Canada O'Neill Coldwater Classic: the action moved back to North Chesterman Beach, unrecognizable from the other day with high tide eroding the sand, vast uncrossable puddles and the rock where I sat making a phonecall on my first nearly underwater. Then there was the rain, a little drizzle at first and then pouring down hard in the afternoon while people huddled under the tents with hot coffee trying to stay warm.

But when you're in the water, you're already wet so it didn't deter in the least the spectacular show playing out over the waves. Cory Lopez put on a masterful display as he flew in and around the peaks and valleys of the waves, conjuring up the word "fluid". He had it all - moves, execution and style choreographed to inspire and awe. Cory had today's highest single wave score at 9.50.

In one of the final three-men heats, two surfers launched from the east and west side of the same peak, causing viewers and camera lenses to richochet from one end of the beach to the other and back to catch all the excitement. It was an apt signal for the upcoming duels, as heats were reduced to two competitors per heat as we head towards the final victor.

More good news - local Pete DeVries made it into the quarterfinals. Once they've determined the location for the final contest this morning, I'll be there, on the beach, watching surf history unfold.

Walk on water - Day 5 at the Canada O'Neill Coldwater Classic

Day 5 of the Canada O'Neill Coldwater Classic had it all - starting with short but clean and sometimes frustrating waves during high tide that had competitors in so close to shore they were performing almost right in front of the judge's tent, much to photographers' delight. Then
the ocean took a deep breath and surfers paddled back and forth trying to stay warm while life and death minutes ticked away on the heat. It kicked back into high gear as the day progressed with increasingly chaotic and fog-enshrouded waves, dropping to low tide.

It was man vs. ocean as competitors waited out lulls and when the action hit, two, sometimes three surfers progressive waves in a set, giving the crowd a thrill. Hometown heroes Pete Devries and Shannon Brown showed their knowledge of the local surf to great point advantage.

Today was a battle of the masters as only two of the three men competing in each heat would go on in the contest. But when you play with the ocean, nothing is a sure thing. During one heat it seemed the lead changed places each time a surfer caught a new wave. And then there was the incredible contest between DeVries and Ireland's Glenn Hall. And it's not over yet.

Day 6 can only get more intense.

If you're a beginning surfer who doesn't live near the ocean, it can be a challenge to stay in shape for the next time you hit the waves. In fact, according to one estimate, Whitehorse, YT where I live, is 1,911 km away from Tofino. (As the raven flies?) That's where the O'Neill Surf classic will be held in late October:
http://www.surfingvancouverisland.com/surf/newz.htm

As an eager new enthusiast, I'd like to go to see surfing at it's finest and experience that watershed moment - the first time a world qualifying competition has ever been held on Canadian shores. From here, it's only a quick plane ride to Vancouver, a ferry ride and then the Tofino bus: www.tofinobus.com

In the meantime, I've started cross-training slowly with run-walks in the bush 2 minutes away from my neighbourhood bordering the wilderness. Swimming will also become an important part of my regime. But I'll have to wait for the annual maintenance to be completed before I can resume laps at the fantastic pool at the Canada Games Centre. It reopens mid-September: http://www.canadagamescentre.whitehorse.ca/

When I was in Ucluelet, I asked about cross-training to build my core strength, work my arms for paddling and my legs for snap-ups. I learned that the following should all help:
swimming
running and hiking
biking
yoga for stretching
pilates to build muscle
salmon capsules for building lean muscle

I've been looking online for advice and found this article:
http://www.surfitness.com/surflifewomen.htm
I'll share more as I discover it and report in on my progress.

I know I'm not the only surfer in Whitehorse, so if anyone else would like to share their cross-training routine, please comment on this post and it would be great to hear about surfing experiences elsewhere in the world. Personally, I have my sights set on Bali in the future, a wonderful place to escape to warm waves once it hits -40 in the Yukon.

I've been told that Ian Rinn operates a great surf-yoga retreat and have also been dreaming about wwww.surfgoddesss.com

surfergrrrrrl