Sunday, April 4, 2010

Return to Wickaninnish Beach


I was listening to Long Beach Radio yesterday when the dj announced the challenges faced by local surfers as waves reached 19 feet with 14 second intervals and the wind gusted from 30-40 knots. That was all the incentive I needed to grab the dogs and the camera and head back to Wickaninnish Beach, where I took those early surf lessons last year.


It's definitely a different scenario in the winter, amping up the already strong currents at Wickannish. These spectacular views (above) greeted us along with determined surfers, who couldn't make it much past the breakwater. I saw the fellow heading into the waves give it a valiant try, trying to turn around and paddle towards shore but he was soon forced to abandon his ride. As a comparison, last summer the waves here reached only 7 feet with 12 second intervals. It looked intimidating to me then after the baby waves I'd experienced on my initiation to the sport in Hawaii, in Lahaina's protected surf lanes on Maui. Even last November, during O'Neill Coldwater Classic in Tofino, the waves were disorganized but nothing like this epic surf.


Those intrepid waveriders weren't the only ones mesmerized by the waves. The crowd hunkered down in the driftwood watched nature's magnificent display with reverence. But as we walked along the beach, we soon learned how dangerous it was to try and take shelter in those logs, with high tide coming in fast.


Although Wolf has come a long way towards enjoying playing in the surf, he still can't swim, and when those big waves swept towards us we bolted for higher ground, up onto those logs barring our exit. I had to coax Owl along, she wanted to play on the sand, even with the injured paw you see her babying here (she appears to have cut her pad on an oyster shell on another more rugged beach). As the water surged in, she took one graceful leap to join us, perched precariously on those giant pickup stix.


Of course, the logs provided only a false sense of security. Incoming waves can easily lift this already tippy ground from underneath your feet, and sweep them back out to the sea, as we saw hopping to on the much more solid ground of Exit A to the parking lot.

As for this surfergrrrrrl, I have my surfboard picked out and am hoping to also pick up a winterweight wetsuit later this week, but I'll wait for a calmer day to get out there. I may even sign up for another private lesson just learn how to deal with current surf conditions.

be safe,
surfergrrrrrl signing off